Day 6: Kyoto - Nijojo, Soba, and Osaka Fugu

Nijojo Castle and the Nightingale Floor
Finally today, we had to go see the famous Nightingale Floor (uguisubari, wiki, Youtube clip) at Nijojo Castle. We got up early, took the bus and arrived at Nijojo-mae at 10am. We bought tickets and headed into the castle grounds. The castle is huge. And the moat and gardens surrounding it were beautiful. Not long after walking around the area, we hear the beat of drums. We ran towards the sound, and lo and behold, a concert of traditional drums by children. They were really good! Nothing like a good drum beat to get your heart going. As they played, I can imaging the intimidation of drums in the castle, which is mainly a military base. But also, you can feel the rush of the beat as a warrior might, getting ready to fight, brushing aside all hesitation, doubt, and fear. The exhiliration!

After the concert, we walk around more to find the famous floor. And guess what? The entrance to the main castle area was closed because of the New Year holiday! Fantastic isn't it? After three days of by-passing Nijojo in Kyoto, we finally get in, but the floor still remains barred to us. Well, if the floor doesn't want to see us, then we don't want to see it either! We pick ourselves up, and start heading towards the Gion area again to buy some gifts.

The best Soba in the Universe
We took the bus from Nijojo to head towards Gion area. But we stopped in front of Chion Temple (Chion-mae, or 智恩時). It was about lunch time, so we were looking for a lunch place. Getting off the bus, our noses detected a fragrant aroma. Here's a good advice. When hungry, follow your nose. We saw this tiny looking place with just an unassuming entrance, and the smell of good food was coming from there. So we step in, and the restuarant was a small one with only seats enough for about 20. It was mainly a soba restaurant. Our party of 6 had to split up to sit down. Mimi and Peipei sat at the counter area. Me, Charlene and her parents sat at a table which we shared with 3 other older Japanese folks. Through our limited Japanese, we managed to order the most awesome soba noodles I had ever tasted! It was soooooooo good that I would remember this bowl of noodles for the longest time! I have the name card of the place, and if ever I go back to Kyoto, I must eat there.

As I mentioned, we shared our table with 3 others. It turns out, as we sort of tried to communicate, that they were the parents of the owners of the restaurant. We ganbei-ed them. And the father treated Charlene's dad to another bottle of sake! So goooood! Present-o! We slurped the noodles down, I ordered another bowl of oyako-donburi. Did I say? This was the best soba and oyako-don in the universe?!?!?

Fugu in Osaka
After lunch, we continued our shopping in the Gion area. We bought tea, snacks, and all sorts of things as gifts for friends. We then head to Kyoto-eki to take the train to Osaka, where apparently there is a famous fugu restaurant (Zuboraya). Osaka is less than an hour away from Kyoto by express train. We arrive at Zuboraya. You can't miss it. Its got a huge fugu (puffer fish) in front of it. We got our seats, and looked at the menu. Fugu is a delicacy. The prices are also very "delicate". Our experience at this restaurant was a little weird. Here's what I mean. When we were ordering, the waiter who was taking our order (he speaks Mandarin) started rejecting our orders, saying You won't like this, or That is not nice. We were a little shocked that any restaurant would tell its guests that their food is not nice! So we ended up ordering the most basic of all (because all his recommendations were really expensive - 5000yen average!) - fugu-nabe. It was not so delicious...but we are told that's because fugu meat is very light...very delicate. Not my kind of food at that price!

Well, we had good soba today, and we had a good drum show. Head back to Kyoto!

Day 5: Kyoto - Kinkakuji, Nijojo-mae, Gion, Kyoto Eki

Kinkakuji, the Golden Shrine
Kinkakuji is a shrine covered in gold. We took the bus there today. You can get the day-pass from any bus driver in Kyoto. Bus rides are a little different. You get on at the back door, and get out the front door, and pay as you leave. The ride was extremely crowded, so that we were completely squashed...it was very warm and cozy that way! Kinkakuji has a 200 yen entrance fee. We spent the morning there strolling in a cloudy, light drizzle. There was still a crowd even though it is a Saturday and the 2nd day of the New Year. Someone famous has his remains there, somewhere. Some general...can't quite remember the name. The temple is surrounded by a lake so there is quite a nice view of the temple. There are three stories, the first floor is made of wood, second and third has gold, and have different designs. On the way down the hill, there were samples of pickles and nuts again. That's the wonderful thing here, samples before you buy, so you know what you are getting. And it all tastes so good after a walk up and down the hill.

A restaurant called "Now"
We tried to eat a famous all-you-can-eat seafood buffet place, but that was closed for New Year holidays. So instead, we had lunch at a place near Kinkakuji that was called "Now". I had soba, Charlene had tonkatsu. Food was good, and again, was served really fast. I don't have the website for this restaurant, but it is along the main road just outside Kinkakuji, about 5 min walk to the right when facing out. The seafood place is along the way. I am told that people actually go back there to eat more than once per visit to Kyoto. We will have to try this next time we come.

Shopping area in Teramachi Street
We wanted to see Nijojo Castle, but found out that ticket sales close at 3pm. We'll try again tomorrow. So instead we ended up in Teramachi area, which is the shopping area just before Gion, where we were yesterday. Lots of small tidbits and shops, including Takashimaya and Daimaru. We bought some donuts made from soy beans too. Light taste, sweet, and warm, with nice tender crunchiness. These are probably the best donuts in the universe.

Ramen street dinner at Kyoto Station
It is dinner time and we head toward Kyoto Eki. On the 11th floor of the Isetan building there is a whole food court called The Cube with of all kinds of ramen shops. We take the escalators up in the cold chilly wind, but fantastic night view of Kyoto tower. Finally we arrive at piping hot ramen with chasu! As with any good place to eat in Japan, there is a line, and the ramen shops are all tiny, with minimal seating space. The point is to eat and go. Nothing like a hot bowl of ramen after a walk in the cold.

Day 4: First Day of 2009, Kyoto

Tokyo to Kyoto on the Shinkansen
Kyoto, the greatest city in the universe! We took the Shinkansen using our JR Pass, which allows us to travel on most Shinkansen lines (excludes the Nozomi line). The bullet train goes at 300 kph, is absolutely quiet, absolutely clean, and absolute the best train in the universe. We had our bento sets along the way as well. Which includes rice, sushi, grilled eel (or unagi), and pickles. The bento set is cold, or at least it is not heated, but it tastes great. Along the way, we pass Mt Fuji on the right. Mt Fuji sightings are notoriously erratic, because legend has it that she is a shy one - sometimes she'll let you see, sometimes she won't. Since its a two hour ride, we set down to writing postcards to friends and family. Postcards were bought in Shimokitazawa, Jiyugaoka and Ginza.

Our Kyoto stay at Tenshi-Tukinuke
Our apartment in Kyoto was Tenshi-Tukinuke, owned by Nishimura-san. The place is nice and quaint. Two-story with tatami living room and a small view garden on the first floor. The toilet bath area has a window also looking out into the garden, giving you an almost onsen like experience while you shower. The second floor is the sleeping area which is spacious enough to contain three of us. Microwave, hot water boiler, tea, coffee, toiletries all provided. Price is around about 5000 yen per person. The location is on Matsubara ji, between Gojoji and Shijoji (5th and 4th roads), close to Gion area by bus number 50. Nishimura-san is a very pleasant person and well versed in the area. He picked us up from the Kyoto Eki and introduced us to the facilities. He also provided plenty of tour information like bus times, places of interest etc. Do contact him!

First Day of 2009 at Gion Area
After settling in, we set out for more best adventures in the universe. Kyoto, of course, is known for its temples and tradition. So more temples, and more post-New Year crowd! It was already pretty late, so went to Yasaka shrine. There were already a lot of people there at around 5pm. The night food markets were out, the temple was at full blast. So more wonderful yakitori, oden and hot sake.

After the temple, we later took a short walk around the traditional district around Gion, where geishas dart in and out. Although we didn't see many owing to the late night and new year's congregation at the temple. After that, we had a nice dinner at a place near where we live that allows you to choose your dishes. I forget what its called, but we had various types of food, including of course, oden.

Its been a long but amazing day. Back in our apartment, we got rested and ready for the next day, which promises to reveal more in the daylight. Happy New Year!

Day 3: Ikebukuro, Asakusa, New Year's Eve 2009

JR Rail Pass
Today is the last day of the year, the 31st of Dec 2008. We first went to Ueno station in the morning to get our JR Passes. Apparently, only foreigners are allowed to purchase this pass. It is actually quite powerful. Unlimited rides on JR operated trains and certain Shinkansen lines (minus the Nozomi line) for either 7 or 14 days, or a whole month. We bought the pass for whole of Japan (28300 yen). You can get this pass at any JR station information counter, but you have to order online ahead, and bring your passport with you. We're going from Tokyo to Kyoto, Hakone and back. So this works out to be a lot cheaper than if we buy the tickets separate. All the Japanese we encountered on this trip, including Atsunobu and Koki were terribly impressed with this magic card. The JR Pass is probably the best pass in the universe.

Meeting Mieko at Ikebukuro
After settling the tickets, Charlene and I took the Yamanote line and went to meet an old friend of her's from Susan Garnsey's lab - Mieko Ueno. We met up in Ikebukuro for lunch and coffee. We had hot pot - cod fish, meat balls, and a kimchi and pork. It was a great time to catch up with a friend, we had fun talking and finding out what was going on in each others' lives. Ikebukuro is between Ueno Station and Shinjuku, and it is also a center for shopping and business. Anyway, after coffee we headed back to Ueno to meet up with the rest again.

The Walk to Asakusa
Charlene and I came here before as well. But it was again nice to come back to a familiar place. Asakusa is the area where the Kaminarimon is as well as Sensoji Temple. Koki brought us around here the last time. He also told us the story about the lightning and thunder gods I think...behind the Kaminarimon, and also the goddess of mercy statue behind the Sensoji Temple. But I forget exactly what it is. My memory is not the best in the universe. This time, we spent half a day there, and discovered some new things. We walked from Ueno station to Kaminarimon (30min).

Because it is New Year's Eve, there was an extra amount of crowd around the Kaminarimon/Sensoji Temple area. The shops in front of the temple were all open in their full glory. We were so distracted by the little tidbits from on the way, and also the area before Sensoji Temple - tempura, Mr Donut, Japanese pickles, red bean snacks of all kinds, hot sweet sake, rice crackers, little trinkets. We saw Ryokan Shigetsu again around the area. It is still there and doing well. We were glad about that, and happy to see it. And just when we made it to the Sensoji Temple, we discovered that the New Year scene involves also a night market around the temple. There was stewed radishes (oden), yakitori, grilled clams, fish, caramelized fruit, hot sake. So many things to eat. We hung around the Temple area, beautiful crescent moon. And as we were going back, we had more beef stew and hot sake.

After walking around the most awesome temple in the universe and the most crazy night market in the universe, we caught the train on the Yamanote line, the most amazing line in the universe, and arrived back at Ueno house, and watched the Red/White show usher in the New Year. This show, called Kohaku Uta Gassen in Japanese, is always showed at the end of the year as part of the celebration, and traditional Japanese families watch it as it showcases the best music of the year. So in most senses, it is the best music variety show in the universe. At midnight the Temples all over Japan start ringing their bells (108 times, representing the number of human sins and desires), and the people rushing to make their wishes at the temples. In Japan, it seems, New Year is celebrated first with a family dinner, then going to the temple to observe the bell ringing, and praying for blessings for the New Year. A huge crowd. Police had to hold them back for order. They are the most policing policemen in the universe.

Have the happiest new year in the universe!

Day 2: Tsukiji Market, Ginza, Tsukishima

The wet and wild Tsukiji Market
Today, we met Atsunobu, who was our guide for the entire day! Thanks Atsunobu! It was a wonderful time. Charlene's parents were impressed out of their boots by our most illustrious tour guide, who is the best tour guide in the universe. We started off early morning and headed to Tsukiji Fish Market. Our adventure began in the inner market, where it was all wet and smelt of the sea. Tons and tons of people buying food for the coming New Year celebration at home. Huge tuna as big as a cow! Live fish, octopus, sea cucumber, prawns, salmon, and all kinds of colorful, wonderful products of the sea. Fish heads, fish heads, rolly polly fish heads. Fishermen slopping around. Fish slapping everywhere. Octopus suckers staring at you. Puffer fish bloating up. Delicious! Tsukiji fish market is the best fish market in the universe. Here's a clip to show you the flipping fish fantasia:

There were many opportunities to sample food along the streets as well, all kinds of Japanese pickles, seaweeds. Nuts and berries. And an Okinawa donut. Next, the outer market. Ramen, donburi, the first Yoshinoya (picture shown). Almost all the sushi shops had long lines, but we finally had lunch in a sushi restaurant that had a shorter line. Great fresh fish as well as the famous tamago that people were lining up all the way just to get a taste, and boy, it was good indeed. It was the best tamago in the universe.

Walking through Ginza
After lunch, we walked towards Ginza district and stopped at various places along the way. Ginza is kinda like the Magnificent Mile in Chicago or Orchard Road in Singapore. But of course, it is the best Ginza in the universe. A Hongan Bhuddist temple was a long the way. Hongan apparently is a very powerful association that was politically involved. Historically, they were the ones that the shogun used to control people through religion. This is according to our best tour guide in the universe. We also passed a Mac store, an An Pan shop, Itoya (stationary shop). We spent a while in the 7 storey Itoya building. Because this was the best stationary in the universe.

Tsukishima the Moon Island
Next, we took the train to Tsukishima area for a monjayaki and okonomiyaki dinner. Here, the streets are famous for their monja shops. In fact, it is called monja street. Monja is the best food in the universe. It is made from starchy gluten, and is fried on a teppanyaki with vegetables, seafood, or other ingredients. Like chai tao kuay. We also had okonomiyaki, which is like a really thick and rich omelette. And also fried noodles - yakisoba. It turns out that our best tour guide in the universe is also the best chef in the universe. Here's what I mean:

Finally, we walked across the Sumida river and went to the St Luke's hotel observatory for a night view of the city. At the end of our day, we parted with Atsunobu, and headed back for Ueno.

Thanks again for an awesome time Atsunobu!

Day 1: Tokyo - Harajuku, Shimokitazawa, Jiyugoaka

The Meiji Shrine in Harajuku
We started the day in Harajuku, where the Meiji Shrine is. I've been here before but it was nice to be back in a familiar place in a foreign land. This is a shrine dedicated to the emperor, who is also deemed as a deity - Son of Heaven. Many families have special occasions here, like weddings, graduations, funerals. People come here also to pray for good fortune and blessings. You can get talismans and charms for road safety, success in studies and business, and of course, in love. The weather was great and it was a nice walk. The sake and wine that were donated to the emperor are still there. This time though, people were busy preparing for the New Year celebrations coming up soon. Temple staff were carrying props and fixtures everywhere, and stands were being put up so that people can purchase charms on New Year's day, as well as the night food markets.

Shimokitazawa street shops
Next up was Shimokitazawa. Many small shops selling anything from groceries to gifts to furniture. We looked for a Curry place for lunch recommended by a travel magazine, but after going around a few times and double-checking for directions, we concluded that the shop had closed down. This is good advice, ALWAYS buy the latest travel guide, or at least, check online about your facts first. Finally, we had lunch at Popolamama consisting of Italian fusion. Pasta and pizza. It was pretty good. A standard meal that was filling! Afterwards we shopped around more, and then had coffee.

Jiyugaoka
Jiyugaoka in Kanji is Hill of Freedom. But don't be mistaken, nothing is free there. More small shops again, this time with several dessert shops. Crepes along the roadside, the Sweet Forest - a food court that sells all kinds of desserts - cakes, ice-cream, chocolates, jelly, parfaits... After dessert, we had dinner at one of those hole-in-the-wall ramen shops. We were all very full already, but the ramen is always good in Japan. This one was a little oily, but hey, its ramen. Eating ramen in Japan can be very stressful. Everyone has their own place. there is not big table where you can sit together and chat. In fact, you are not supposed to chit-chat. Eat your ramen and get going! But don't forget to shout "Oishi!" because ramen is the best food in the universe.

Getting from here to there

Taking the LEX from Champaign to O'Hare is probably the worst experience in the universe.
This is the view from the back of the LEX (the Lincoln Express). It was crazy! I highly do not recommend the LEX unless you really have no choice. $50 (after tax and tip!). Plus, I hear that the Suburban Express is better. More comfortable for the same price, with newer vehicles. In the LEX, our luggage was dragged out in the trailer outside. The ride was bumpy, it was raining...and leaking! It reminded me of my army days, riding in the dark in the hummer on a mission. Never again! It is not worth it when you can choose your ride. Next on my list of public transport between Chicago and Champaign is the Amtrak.

Having hash browns in O'Hare, Chicago, US.
We finally arrive at O'Hare, Terminal 3, at 6 in the morning. Our flight leaves at 11am! Stupid mid-west weather. We checked-in after a decent wait of about 1 hr, that's good by O'Hare standard. O'Hare is probably the worst airport in the universe. That's just the airport. The people who work in it are probably nice. After passing through the security checkpoint, where we still have to remove our laptops from their covers and take off our shoes, we were in! We navigated to the usual Parklab venue for food while in transit in O'Hare at the Food Court (K Gate area) Macdonald's. And there I am, with my big breakfast combo of which the only thing I really like are the hash browns and scrambled eggs. Macdonald's coffee is probably the worst coffee in the universe.

Arriving at Narita, Tokyo
We flew via American Airlines. American is probably close to the worst airline in the universe, next to United, which is even closer. The worst airline in the universe probably is illegal. There is no free alcohol in flight. That's probably why. And the food is like the kids happy meal in a family restaurant - both in terms of size and quality. But the redeeming point here is the destination - Tokyo. Why else would you pay for this? Well, technically, I didn't pay. This was a mileage claimed trip. After a 13 hr flight, we are at Narita Airport waiting for Charlene's family to arrive. Charlene is having her afternoon tea while we wait. That's two espressos and an ice cream cone which when combined correctly equals Affogato! Narita airport is probably the best airport in the universe.

From Narita to Ueno Station
Charlene's family arrives at 5.30pm. Everyone is happy. And its great to see family again! We took the Keisei Limited Express (1920 yen pax) from Narita Terminal 2 to Ueno Station in the northwest region of Tokyo. Its a direct train and you can purchase tickets directly at the counter in front of the arrival area of the terminal. After a 70 min train ride, we arrive and check into Ueno House (Taiwanese run long-term stay). We appear a little dark in the photo, but that's because my camera is not the best camera in the universe. Its a nice place for long-term stay. We will be staying there for four days and with six people, its definitely a whole lot cheaper than any hotel.

We left our luggage and quickly head out for dinner nearby at a restaurant called Yayoiken. The place, like any standard Japanese small restaurant, had an interesting way of ordering your food. Its basically like a soda dispenser, only it dispenses food tickets. You put in your money, and then push the buttons that indicated the meal you want. A ticket comes out and you hand it to the waiter. And in a few minutes, your food comes out of the kitchen, onto the table, and into your tummy. One thing I have to say about Japanese restaurants...they are haiyai!

After a fulfilling meal, we go back to our apartment to rest from the day of traveling and get ready for the exciting journey tomorrow!

Departure Eve

Getting ready for the flight to Tokyo tomorrow. We just called for a taxi ride pick up (CU Taxi) at 5.30am. Then as we were packing, the phone rings informing us that our flight from Champaign to Dallas had just been canceled. Probably due to bad weather. So we called American, and they informed us that we had been re-ticketed to take the 7.15am from Champaign to Chicago, and from Chicago to Tokyo, arriving at 3.15pm. Whew!

It is Friday night, and there is dense fog all around.

Dinner

We had the bunch come over yesterday. This was the menu:

Steamed Whole Grass Carp
spring onions
ginger
white wine
salt
olive oil
grass carp
cilantro

Steamed Prawns
brandy
prawns

Curried Lamb
lamb
tumeric powder
cumin seeds
lemon
garlic

Vegetable Clay Pot
tofu
cauliflower
shiitake mushroom
carrots

Boiled Kai Lan
kai lan
oyster sauce
garlic

Lotus Root Soup
lotus root
pork ribs
squid
peanuts
red dates

No pictures leh.

Evolution of Hope

Hope in a few things,
Hope in nothing,
Hope in everything,
Hope in one thing.

SFN Conference in DC 2008

Went to the conference to give my talk. It was, in my opinion, okay only lah. But I guess it was fun to take a break from the regular schedule. I decided that I'm only ok with DC. Not my type of city, but tolerable. Too much political buzz around.

Pictures here: http://travelingjosh.shutterfly.com/2824

Jen and Andy's wedding in NC

Follow the link for pics:
http://travelingjosh.shutterfly.com/2692

We had a great time, drove there for 12 hrs (stopped halfway in London, TN to rest for a night), through the Smokeys, attended the wonderful wedding in Nantahala Valley, spent the night in an old fashioned wood lodge, then drove back another 12 hrs.

A Good Wine

For those who can't see, this is a Blackstone 2006 Syrah. It cost us about $6~8 at Shnuck's. And it was good. I think this will be a standard buy. So far, its one that has stuck. Although that's only because we documented this particular one. This syrah as just the right blend of depth and fruit giving it an all rounded body, which is the way I like it. Goes well with pretty much anything...but then really, any good wine goes well with anything.

Nobody Mourns the Wicked

Nothing is at it seems, once a story is told. We hear about the wonderful wizard of Oz, but why is he so wonderful? Follow the story of Elphaba, by musical or by book. Either way, you'll see things have a 'wicked' way of unfolding.

What a wonderful modern musical...and she flies! Wow. On a broomstick! Double-wow. Bam! And most of all, she's green! Definitely, if you can get tickets, you should watch this fantastic display, if only for an evening of wonder and great story-telling, with the most colorful of characters. We got in for $37 :)

Curtis Orchard

We went to Curtis Orchard the other day. Its an apple farm with apple trees. You can pick your own apples from the trees. They give you the special apple picking hook to reach those that are too high (those that tend to taste better too!). We sampled from the trees...although I'm not sure if we took too many because by the time we sampled, we were actually quite full! Anyway, we picked a whole bag full, and its still not finished yet.

The pictures show some red apples, although most of the apples that were ready for picking were green ones. A lot of the apples also dropped to the ground, many were beginning to rot. It seems quite a waste, but I'm sure there must be some use for these rotting apples somehow...

Curtis Orchards open specific rows of apple trees for picking depending on the season. Usually, the different types of apples ripen over the course of several weeks from late summer to the fall season. You could try your luck...or call them to ask when what type of apples are available. But personally, just go there and buy their pre-picked honey-golden crisp apples. That's their signature apple. Its good!

Texas

Just added the Texas roadtrip photos. See them here.