Sunday, January 04, 2009

Day 6: Kyoto - Nijojo, Soba, and Osaka Fugu

Nijojo Castle and the Nightingale Floor
Finally today, we had to go see the famous Nightingale Floor (uguisubari, wiki, Youtube clip) at Nijojo Castle. We got up early, took the bus and arrived at Nijojo-mae at 10am. We bought tickets and headed into the castle grounds. The castle is huge. And the moat and gardens surrounding it were beautiful. Not long after walking around the area, we hear the beat of drums. We ran towards the sound, and lo and behold, a concert of traditional drums by children. They were really good! Nothing like a good drum beat to get your heart going. As they played, I can imaging the intimidation of drums in the castle, which is mainly a military base. But also, you can feel the rush of the beat as a warrior might, getting ready to fight, brushing aside all hesitation, doubt, and fear. The exhiliration!
After the concert, we walk around more to find the famous floor. And guess what? The entrance to the main castle area was closed because of the New Year holiday! Fantastic isn't it? After three days of by-passing Nijojo in Kyoto, we finally get in, but the floor still remains barred to us. Well, if the floor doesn't want to see us, then we don't want to see it either! We pick ourselves up, and start heading towards the Gion area again to buy some gifts.

The best Soba in the Universe
We took the bus from Nijojo to head towards Gion area. But we stopped in front of Chion Temple (Chion-mae, or 智恩時). It was about lunch time, so we were looking for a lunch place. Getting off the bus, our noses detected a fragrant aroma. Here's a good advice. When hungry, follow your nose. We saw this tiny looking place with just an unassuming entrance, and the smell of good food was coming from there. So we step in, and the restuarant was a small one with only seats enough for about 20. It was mainly a soba restaurant. Our party of 6 had to split up to sit down. Mimi and Peipei sat at the counter area. Me, Charlene and her parents sat at a table which we shared with 3 other older Japanese folks. Through our limited Japanese, we managed to order the most awesome soba noodles I had ever tasted! It was soooooooo good that I would remember this bowl of noodles for the longest time! I have the name card of the place, and if ever I go back to Kyoto, I must eat there.

As I mentioned, we shared our table with 3 others. It turns out, as we sort of tried to communicate, that they were the parents of the owners of the restaurant. We ganbei-ed them. And the father treated Charlene's dad to another bottle of sake! So goooood! Present-o! We slurped the noodles down, I ordered another bowl of oyako-donburi. Did I say? This was the best soba and oyako-don in the universe?!?!?

Fugu in Osaka
After lunch, we continued our shopping in the Gion area. We bought tea, snacks, and all sorts of things as gifts for friends. We then head to Kyoto-eki to take the train to Osaka, where apparently there is a famous fugu restaurant (Zuboraya). Osaka is less than an hour away from Kyoto by express train. We arrive at Zuboraya. You can't miss it. Its got a huge fugu (puffer fish) in front of it. We got our seats, and looked at the menu. Fugu is a delicacy. The prices are also very "delicate". Our experience at this restaurant was a little weird. Here's what I mean. When we were ordering, the waiter who was taking our order (he speaks Mandarin) started rejecting our orders, saying You won't like this, or That is not nice. We were a little shocked that any restaurant would tell its guests that their food is not nice! So we ended up ordering the most basic of all (because all his recommendations were really expensive - 5000yen average!) - fugu-nabe. It was not so delicious...but we are told that's because fugu meat is very light...very delicate. Not my kind of food at that price!

Well, we had good soba today, and we had a good drum show. Head back to Kyoto!

3 comments:

  1. Eh that soba place sounds good! Do you remember what it's called?

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  2. I don't know what its called, but it is front of Chion-mae bus stop, Kyoto.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Anonymous7:48 PM

    Your blog keeps getting better and better! Your older articles are not as good as newer ones you have a lot more creativity and originality now keep it up!

    ReplyDelete