The Best Soba in the Universe

I have been asked for more details about this mysterious restaurant in Kyoto. Well, I don't know the name (its in Japanese). But it is just in front of the Chion-mae bus stop, which itself means the front of Chion (temple), a famous temple in Kyoto.

Here is what the shop looks like in front:










Here is the bus-stop:


And here is the menu:

Day 7 and 8: Hakone

Ryokan Yuugiriso
Charlene and I have been here before (blog). But we found this ryokan very relaxing and enjoyable, that we came back again. This time with an even bigger crowd! Yuugiriso is located just at the south shore of Lake Ashi. It is a modern ryokan, which means that it has the standard onsen (hot spring bath), tatami floors, yukata, dinner and breakfast service, as well as more western amenities, like bathrooms in each room rather than a public shared one, and other modern conveniences (e.g. TV). No internet though! The point is to relax and be whisked away into a different world.

We checked in and first went for a lake cruise on Lake Ashi, then a walk in the Onshi park nearby. We came back and dipped in the hot spring. That was absolutely relaxing. Then, the dinner was fanstastic, just as we remembered. There is the Yuugiriso plum wine as a starter drink, and this is followed by a wonderful large dinner spread, dessert and coffee/tea. We ate till we could eat no more, and were completely relaxed.

So we drifted off to sleep.

Hakone - Owakudani
The next day, I get up early, and went for another dip in the hot spring again. After this, we had breakfast, which was another fantastic spread! We quickly check-out of the ryokan, and then headed for sight-seeing around the Hakone area. This area is a hot spring area because of the exposed lava, and geothermal structures. The main place to see this is Owakudani National Park. You kind of have to plan ahead for this, because Hakone is a mountain area, so the way to travel is not so obvious. Word of advice, buy the Hakone 2-day visitor pass at the Hakone-Yumoto eki, or the Odawara-eki (whichever you get off the main trains to come to this area). This gives you unlimited rides and entries into most Hakone places of interst. There's the old Hakone rail train, the cable car and the trolleys. You'll have to switch between these to get to Owakudani, but the sight is worth it. On a good day, you might see Mt Fuji.

After successfully going through all the sights, we rushed back to Hakone-Yumoto to get onto the train to Tokyo again, and then on to Narita. Charlene's parents and Mimi were leaving first, so we all sent them off.

Day 6: Kyoto - Nijojo, Soba, and Osaka Fugu

Nijojo Castle and the Nightingale Floor
Finally today, we had to go see the famous Nightingale Floor (uguisubari, wiki, Youtube clip) at Nijojo Castle. We got up early, took the bus and arrived at Nijojo-mae at 10am. We bought tickets and headed into the castle grounds. The castle is huge. And the moat and gardens surrounding it were beautiful. Not long after walking around the area, we hear the beat of drums. We ran towards the sound, and lo and behold, a concert of traditional drums by children. They were really good! Nothing like a good drum beat to get your heart going. As they played, I can imaging the intimidation of drums in the castle, which is mainly a military base. But also, you can feel the rush of the beat as a warrior might, getting ready to fight, brushing aside all hesitation, doubt, and fear. The exhiliration!

After the concert, we walk around more to find the famous floor. And guess what? The entrance to the main castle area was closed because of the New Year holiday! Fantastic isn't it? After three days of by-passing Nijojo in Kyoto, we finally get in, but the floor still remains barred to us. Well, if the floor doesn't want to see us, then we don't want to see it either! We pick ourselves up, and start heading towards the Gion area again to buy some gifts.

The best Soba in the Universe
We took the bus from Nijojo to head towards Gion area. But we stopped in front of Chion Temple (Chion-mae, or 智恩時). It was about lunch time, so we were looking for a lunch place. Getting off the bus, our noses detected a fragrant aroma. Here's a good advice. When hungry, follow your nose. We saw this tiny looking place with just an unassuming entrance, and the smell of good food was coming from there. So we step in, and the restuarant was a small one with only seats enough for about 20. It was mainly a soba restaurant. Our party of 6 had to split up to sit down. Mimi and Peipei sat at the counter area. Me, Charlene and her parents sat at a table which we shared with 3 other older Japanese folks. Through our limited Japanese, we managed to order the most awesome soba noodles I had ever tasted! It was soooooooo good that I would remember this bowl of noodles for the longest time! I have the name card of the place, and if ever I go back to Kyoto, I must eat there.

As I mentioned, we shared our table with 3 others. It turns out, as we sort of tried to communicate, that they were the parents of the owners of the restaurant. We ganbei-ed them. And the father treated Charlene's dad to another bottle of sake! So goooood! Present-o! We slurped the noodles down, I ordered another bowl of oyako-donburi. Did I say? This was the best soba and oyako-don in the universe?!?!?

Fugu in Osaka
After lunch, we continued our shopping in the Gion area. We bought tea, snacks, and all sorts of things as gifts for friends. We then head to Kyoto-eki to take the train to Osaka, where apparently there is a famous fugu restaurant (Zuboraya). Osaka is less than an hour away from Kyoto by express train. We arrive at Zuboraya. You can't miss it. Its got a huge fugu (puffer fish) in front of it. We got our seats, and looked at the menu. Fugu is a delicacy. The prices are also very "delicate". Our experience at this restaurant was a little weird. Here's what I mean. When we were ordering, the waiter who was taking our order (he speaks Mandarin) started rejecting our orders, saying You won't like this, or That is not nice. We were a little shocked that any restaurant would tell its guests that their food is not nice! So we ended up ordering the most basic of all (because all his recommendations were really expensive - 5000yen average!) - fugu-nabe. It was not so delicious...but we are told that's because fugu meat is very light...very delicate. Not my kind of food at that price!

Well, we had good soba today, and we had a good drum show. Head back to Kyoto!

Day 5: Kyoto - Kinkakuji, Nijojo-mae, Gion, Kyoto Eki

Kinkakuji, the Golden Shrine
Kinkakuji is a shrine covered in gold. We took the bus there today. You can get the day-pass from any bus driver in Kyoto. Bus rides are a little different. You get on at the back door, and get out the front door, and pay as you leave. The ride was extremely crowded, so that we were completely squashed...it was very warm and cozy that way! Kinkakuji has a 200 yen entrance fee. We spent the morning there strolling in a cloudy, light drizzle. There was still a crowd even though it is a Saturday and the 2nd day of the New Year. Someone famous has his remains there, somewhere. Some general...can't quite remember the name. The temple is surrounded by a lake so there is quite a nice view of the temple. There are three stories, the first floor is made of wood, second and third has gold, and have different designs. On the way down the hill, there were samples of pickles and nuts again. That's the wonderful thing here, samples before you buy, so you know what you are getting. And it all tastes so good after a walk up and down the hill.

A restaurant called "Now"
We tried to eat a famous all-you-can-eat seafood buffet place, but that was closed for New Year holidays. So instead, we had lunch at a place near Kinkakuji that was called "Now". I had soba, Charlene had tonkatsu. Food was good, and again, was served really fast. I don't have the website for this restaurant, but it is along the main road just outside Kinkakuji, about 5 min walk to the right when facing out. The seafood place is along the way. I am told that people actually go back there to eat more than once per visit to Kyoto. We will have to try this next time we come.

Shopping area in Teramachi Street
We wanted to see Nijojo Castle, but found out that ticket sales close at 3pm. We'll try again tomorrow. So instead we ended up in Teramachi area, which is the shopping area just before Gion, where we were yesterday. Lots of small tidbits and shops, including Takashimaya and Daimaru. We bought some donuts made from soy beans too. Light taste, sweet, and warm, with nice tender crunchiness. These are probably the best donuts in the universe.

Ramen street dinner at Kyoto Station
It is dinner time and we head toward Kyoto Eki. On the 11th floor of the Isetan building there is a whole food court called The Cube with of all kinds of ramen shops. We take the escalators up in the cold chilly wind, but fantastic night view of Kyoto tower. Finally we arrive at piping hot ramen with chasu! As with any good place to eat in Japan, there is a line, and the ramen shops are all tiny, with minimal seating space. The point is to eat and go. Nothing like a hot bowl of ramen after a walk in the cold.

Day 4: First Day of 2009, Kyoto

Tokyo to Kyoto on the Shinkansen
Kyoto, the greatest city in the universe! We took the Shinkansen using our JR Pass, which allows us to travel on most Shinkansen lines (excludes the Nozomi line). The bullet train goes at 300 kph, is absolutely quiet, absolutely clean, and absolute the best train in the universe. We had our bento sets along the way as well. Which includes rice, sushi, grilled eel (or unagi), and pickles. The bento set is cold, or at least it is not heated, but it tastes great. Along the way, we pass Mt Fuji on the right. Mt Fuji sightings are notoriously erratic, because legend has it that she is a shy one - sometimes she'll let you see, sometimes she won't. Since its a two hour ride, we set down to writing postcards to friends and family. Postcards were bought in Shimokitazawa, Jiyugaoka and Ginza.

Our Kyoto stay at Tenshi-Tukinuke
Our apartment in Kyoto was Tenshi-Tukinuke, owned by Nishimura-san. The place is nice and quaint. Two-story with tatami living room and a small view garden on the first floor. The toilet bath area has a window also looking out into the garden, giving you an almost onsen like experience while you shower. The second floor is the sleeping area which is spacious enough to contain three of us. Microwave, hot water boiler, tea, coffee, toiletries all provided. Price is around about 5000 yen per person. The location is on Matsubara ji, between Gojoji and Shijoji (5th and 4th roads), close to Gion area by bus number 50. Nishimura-san is a very pleasant person and well versed in the area. He picked us up from the Kyoto Eki and introduced us to the facilities. He also provided plenty of tour information like bus times, places of interest etc. Do contact him!

First Day of 2009 at Gion Area
After settling in, we set out for more best adventures in the universe. Kyoto, of course, is known for its temples and tradition. So more temples, and more post-New Year crowd! It was already pretty late, so went to Yasaka shrine. There were already a lot of people there at around 5pm. The night food markets were out, the temple was at full blast. So more wonderful yakitori, oden and hot sake.

After the temple, we later took a short walk around the traditional district around Gion, where geishas dart in and out. Although we didn't see many owing to the late night and new year's congregation at the temple. After that, we had a nice dinner at a place near where we live that allows you to choose your dishes. I forget what its called, but we had various types of food, including of course, oden.

Its been a long but amazing day. Back in our apartment, we got rested and ready for the next day, which promises to reveal more in the daylight. Happy New Year!

Day 3: Ikebukuro, Asakusa, New Year's Eve 2009

JR Rail Pass
Today is the last day of the year, the 31st of Dec 2008. We first went to Ueno station in the morning to get our JR Passes. Apparently, only foreigners are allowed to purchase this pass. It is actually quite powerful. Unlimited rides on JR operated trains and certain Shinkansen lines (minus the Nozomi line) for either 7 or 14 days, or a whole month. We bought the pass for whole of Japan (28300 yen). You can get this pass at any JR station information counter, but you have to order online ahead, and bring your passport with you. We're going from Tokyo to Kyoto, Hakone and back. So this works out to be a lot cheaper than if we buy the tickets separate. All the Japanese we encountered on this trip, including Atsunobu and Koki were terribly impressed with this magic card. The JR Pass is probably the best pass in the universe.

Meeting Mieko at Ikebukuro
After settling the tickets, Charlene and I took the Yamanote line and went to meet an old friend of her's from Susan Garnsey's lab - Mieko Ueno. We met up in Ikebukuro for lunch and coffee. We had hot pot - cod fish, meat balls, and a kimchi and pork. It was a great time to catch up with a friend, we had fun talking and finding out what was going on in each others' lives. Ikebukuro is between Ueno Station and Shinjuku, and it is also a center for shopping and business. Anyway, after coffee we headed back to Ueno to meet up with the rest again.

The Walk to Asakusa
Charlene and I came here before as well. But it was again nice to come back to a familiar place. Asakusa is the area where the Kaminarimon is as well as Sensoji Temple. Koki brought us around here the last time. He also told us the story about the lightning and thunder gods I think...behind the Kaminarimon, and also the goddess of mercy statue behind the Sensoji Temple. But I forget exactly what it is. My memory is not the best in the universe. This time, we spent half a day there, and discovered some new things. We walked from Ueno station to Kaminarimon (30min).

Because it is New Year's Eve, there was an extra amount of crowd around the Kaminarimon/Sensoji Temple area. The shops in front of the temple were all open in their full glory. We were so distracted by the little tidbits from on the way, and also the area before Sensoji Temple - tempura, Mr Donut, Japanese pickles, red bean snacks of all kinds, hot sweet sake, rice crackers, little trinkets. We saw Ryokan Shigetsu again around the area. It is still there and doing well. We were glad about that, and happy to see it. And just when we made it to the Sensoji Temple, we discovered that the New Year scene involves also a night market around the temple. There was stewed radishes (oden), yakitori, grilled clams, fish, caramelized fruit, hot sake. So many things to eat. We hung around the Temple area, beautiful crescent moon. And as we were going back, we had more beef stew and hot sake.

After walking around the most awesome temple in the universe and the most crazy night market in the universe, we caught the train on the Yamanote line, the most amazing line in the universe, and arrived back at Ueno house, and watched the Red/White show usher in the New Year. This show, called Kohaku Uta Gassen in Japanese, is always showed at the end of the year as part of the celebration, and traditional Japanese families watch it as it showcases the best music of the year. So in most senses, it is the best music variety show in the universe. At midnight the Temples all over Japan start ringing their bells (108 times, representing the number of human sins and desires), and the people rushing to make their wishes at the temples. In Japan, it seems, New Year is celebrated first with a family dinner, then going to the temple to observe the bell ringing, and praying for blessings for the New Year. A huge crowd. Police had to hold them back for order. They are the most policing policemen in the universe.

Have the happiest new year in the universe!

Day 2: Tsukiji Market, Ginza, Tsukishima

The wet and wild Tsukiji Market
Today, we met Atsunobu, who was our guide for the entire day! Thanks Atsunobu! It was a wonderful time. Charlene's parents were impressed out of their boots by our most illustrious tour guide, who is the best tour guide in the universe. We started off early morning and headed to Tsukiji Fish Market. Our adventure began in the inner market, where it was all wet and smelt of the sea. Tons and tons of people buying food for the coming New Year celebration at home. Huge tuna as big as a cow! Live fish, octopus, sea cucumber, prawns, salmon, and all kinds of colorful, wonderful products of the sea. Fish heads, fish heads, rolly polly fish heads. Fishermen slopping around. Fish slapping everywhere. Octopus suckers staring at you. Puffer fish bloating up. Delicious! Tsukiji fish market is the best fish market in the universe. Here's a clip to show you the flipping fish fantasia:

There were many opportunities to sample food along the streets as well, all kinds of Japanese pickles, seaweeds. Nuts and berries. And an Okinawa donut. Next, the outer market. Ramen, donburi, the first Yoshinoya (picture shown). Almost all the sushi shops had long lines, but we finally had lunch in a sushi restaurant that had a shorter line. Great fresh fish as well as the famous tamago that people were lining up all the way just to get a taste, and boy, it was good indeed. It was the best tamago in the universe.

Walking through Ginza
After lunch, we walked towards Ginza district and stopped at various places along the way. Ginza is kinda like the Magnificent Mile in Chicago or Orchard Road in Singapore. But of course, it is the best Ginza in the universe. A Hongan Bhuddist temple was a long the way. Hongan apparently is a very powerful association that was politically involved. Historically, they were the ones that the shogun used to control people through religion. This is according to our best tour guide in the universe. We also passed a Mac store, an An Pan shop, Itoya (stationary shop). We spent a while in the 7 storey Itoya building. Because this was the best stationary in the universe.

Tsukishima the Moon Island
Next, we took the train to Tsukishima area for a monjayaki and okonomiyaki dinner. Here, the streets are famous for their monja shops. In fact, it is called monja street. Monja is the best food in the universe. It is made from starchy gluten, and is fried on a teppanyaki with vegetables, seafood, or other ingredients. Like chai tao kuay. We also had okonomiyaki, which is like a really thick and rich omelette. And also fried noodles - yakisoba. It turns out that our best tour guide in the universe is also the best chef in the universe. Here's what I mean:

Finally, we walked across the Sumida river and went to the St Luke's hotel observatory for a night view of the city. At the end of our day, we parted with Atsunobu, and headed back for Ueno.

Thanks again for an awesome time Atsunobu!

Day 1: Tokyo - Harajuku, Shimokitazawa, Jiyugoaka

The Meiji Shrine in Harajuku
We started the day in Harajuku, where the Meiji Shrine is. I've been here before but it was nice to be back in a familiar place in a foreign land. This is a shrine dedicated to the emperor, who is also deemed as a deity - Son of Heaven. Many families have special occasions here, like weddings, graduations, funerals. People come here also to pray for good fortune and blessings. You can get talismans and charms for road safety, success in studies and business, and of course, in love. The weather was great and it was a nice walk. The sake and wine that were donated to the emperor are still there. This time though, people were busy preparing for the New Year celebrations coming up soon. Temple staff were carrying props and fixtures everywhere, and stands were being put up so that people can purchase charms on New Year's day, as well as the night food markets.

Shimokitazawa street shops
Next up was Shimokitazawa. Many small shops selling anything from groceries to gifts to furniture. We looked for a Curry place for lunch recommended by a travel magazine, but after going around a few times and double-checking for directions, we concluded that the shop had closed down. This is good advice, ALWAYS buy the latest travel guide, or at least, check online about your facts first. Finally, we had lunch at Popolamama consisting of Italian fusion. Pasta and pizza. It was pretty good. A standard meal that was filling! Afterwards we shopped around more, and then had coffee.

Jiyugaoka
Jiyugaoka in Kanji is Hill of Freedom. But don't be mistaken, nothing is free there. More small shops again, this time with several dessert shops. Crepes along the roadside, the Sweet Forest - a food court that sells all kinds of desserts - cakes, ice-cream, chocolates, jelly, parfaits... After dessert, we had dinner at one of those hole-in-the-wall ramen shops. We were all very full already, but the ramen is always good in Japan. This one was a little oily, but hey, its ramen. Eating ramen in Japan can be very stressful. Everyone has their own place. there is not big table where you can sit together and chat. In fact, you are not supposed to chit-chat. Eat your ramen and get going! But don't forget to shout "Oishi!" because ramen is the best food in the universe.